Honest Burgers Soho
I never thought I’d say this living in London, and up until the back-end of last year I probably would have no reason to, but I’m getting a little bit bored of burgers.
Not so much bored of the burgers themselves, per say, but by the absurd frenzied scramble by foodies to have tried and rated the latest one peddled by the newest upstart within days, nay, mere minutes of them opening their doors. I find it all a bit ridiculous and frankly unhealthy.
There seems to be a new must-try burger joint opening every month in London now, and people like Daniel Young must be eating 4 or 5 burgers a week, minimum, just keeping tabs on it all. I commend the likes of Young and Burgerac for their selfless ‘research’, but rather their guts than mine, is all I can say.
I’m also finding it increasingly difficult to compare one decent burger with another. After all, this is not michellin-starred molecular gastronomy we’re talking about here, this is a burger (though I do admit that Bar Boulud‘s ‘piggy’ comes pretty damn close to that level of greatness).
Don’t get me wrong, there is a massive difference between a really good one and a really bad one, but the best thing to have come out of this seemingly unending craze is undoubtedly that standards have hugely improved across London as a whole and that there are now many places in the city finally offering a bloody good impression of a proper American burger. That’ll do for me.
So, this weekend I finally gave up trying to keep up with the burger Jones’. In fairness, I’ve been doing a pretty bad job of it anyway, but my new resolve is that if the newest burger joint really is that good, it’ll still be around in a few months when I finally get round to trying it.
This epiphany enabled me to shun London’s newest “must-try” Dirty Burger, put off the Slider Bar‘s miniatures and ignore Elliot’s supposedly sterling cheeseburger for the time being in favour of an Honest Burger in Soho.
The original restaurant has been open in Brixton market for some time already, but I don’t venture south of the river if it can be helped, so my visit to the Soho venture was my first Honest experience so far.
The space is small, covers are limited and it runs a ‘no reservations’ policy (of course). The menu is short – burgers only – and offers a chicken, a veggie and three beef options plus a daily special. All produce is sourced locally and meat is supplied by the Ginger Pig.
I ate the signature Honest Burger, which comes with cheese, bacon, lettuce, pickles and red onion chutney, served with some cracking skin-on fries with rosemary salt and a homemade ‘slaw with far too much dill in it for my liking. The burger, however, was undeniably great. It was perfectly cooked medium rare, the tangy melted cheddar worked really nicely with the sweet onion chutney, and the toasted glazed bun it came in held it all together with consummate ease.
Best of all, it was a perfectly manageable size. A middleweight burger compared to the Super Heavyweight likes of Lucky Chip and MEATliquor, and it was all the better for it on this occasion when my appetite wasn’t up to taking on a gargantuan artery clogger like this.
So, in conclusion, Honest Burger’s Honest Burger is good. Very good. Is it better than others I’ve tasted? I can’t be sure. It’s just a burger. How does it compare to ones I’ve not yet tasted? I don’t know. And I don’t care. After all, they’re all just burgers, and they can wait.